Don’t boil the kettle with more water than you actually need, you’ll save yourself £10 to £12 a year on your electricity bill.

Fit an aerator onto your existing kitchen tap, this reduces the amount of water coming out without affecting how it washes or rinses. An aerator is a small gadget with tiny holes, it’s cheap and easy to install and could save you £19 to £20 a year.

Only run your dishwasher when it’s to full reduce the amount of water you use. Reducing your dishwasher use by one run per week for a year could save you between £12 and £15.

Using your washing machine on a 30-degree cycle instead of higher temperatures and reducing its use by one run per week will save you £24 to £30 on your energy bill. Additionally, only run the washing machine when it’s full, to get even more savings.

Filling cavity walls is not a job you can do yourself, but a professional installer can do the job quickly and cleanly for an average house with easily accessible walls.

Solid walls can be insulated either from the inside or the outside. This will cost more than insulating a cavity wall, but the savings on your heating bills will be bigger too.

Insulating the floor is a great way to keep your property warm. Generally, you only need to insulate the ground floor, but you should also consider insulating any floors that are above unheated spaces such as garages. Insulating under the floorboards on the ground floor could save you about £70 to £80 in an average property.

For windows that open, buy draught proofing strips to stick around the window frame and fill the gap between the window and the frame. For sliding sash windows, foam strips do not work well. It’s best to fit brush strips or consult a professional. For windows that don’t open, use a silicone sealant.

Draught proofing external doors can stop a lot of heat from escaping and won’t cost you much. The four main areas to consider draught proofing are:  the keyhole (buy a purpose- made cover that drops a metal disc over the keyhole), the letterbox (use a letterbox flap or brush but remember to measure your letterbox before you buy the cover), the gap at the bottom (use a brush or hinged flap draught excluder), gaps around the edges (fit foam, brush or wiper strips like those used for windows).

Internal doors only need draught proofing if they lead to a room that you don’t normally heat, such as a spare room or kitchen. Keep those doors closed to stop the cold air from moving into the rest of the house. If there is a gap at the bottom of the door, block it with a draught excluder – you can make one stuffed with used plastic bags or bits of spare material. Internal doors between two heated rooms don’t need draught proofing, as you don’t lose energy when warm air circulates.

If you don’t use your fireplace, your chimney is probably a source of unnecessary draughts. There are two main ways to draught-proof a chimney. The first is to fit a cap over the chimney pot (this may be better done by a professional) and the second is to buy a chimney draught excluder- these help to stop draughts and heat loss through the chimney and are usually fitted inside the chimney or around the fireplace. Don’t forget to remove the draught proofing if you decide to light a fire.

Hot air rises and gets lost in the cold space in your loft or attic, so it’s worth blocking off draughts around your loft hatch. Use strip insulation, like on a door.

You can fill small gaps around pipework with silicone fillers, similar to the fillers used for skirting boards and floorboards. Fill larger gaps with expanding polyurethane foam. This is sprayed into the gap, expands as it dries, and sets hard.

Old fan outlets may need to be filled with bricks or concrete blocks and sealed from both the inside and outside.